Recently a friend and I made a trek to Nebraska to see the spring migration of Sandhill Cranes, a long-standing dream of mine. Every year, hundreds of thousands of cranes, flying north from their winter stay in the southern states and northern Mexico, converge on an 80-mile stretch of the wide, lazy, shallow Platte River. They spend 3-4 weeks resting and foraging before heading out on their long journey to their breeding grounds in northern Canada, Alaska, and Siberia. It is a spectacle. On a single day this March, over 700,000 cranes were counted from a small plane by staff at the Crane Trust.
I did not take photographs. What follows is not a narrative, but a series of verbal snapshots of the nearly overwhelming wonder.
A first sighting, dozens—hundreds—of cranes standing in the gently rolling Nebraska farm fields. Nearly all heads buried in corn stubble for minutes at a time, occasionally raised to survey the landscape, dipping down again to resume foraging. Flocks of tens and thousands of cranes continually flying over the fields, sometimes right over our heads, flapping slowly or soaring on enormous outstretched wings. Sometimes in long lines, sometimes in a loose asymmetrical V, often seemingly millimeters apart, jostling for position but never bumping into one another.
Driving slowly along muddy, pothole-chocked rural roads surrounding the vast acreages. One flock after another, 10 here, 25 there, 200 in the next field, over 1000 in a huge field beyond the rise, cranes munching scattered grain, probing the dirt for larvae, earthworms, snakes, snails.
Thoughts of gratitude for earth-minded farmers who leave their acres untilled after the fall’s harvest, providing bountiful meals for the multitudinous cranes who pass through every spring. Folks who accept with quiet patience the flocks of humans of all ages, inching down the roads, stopping suddenly, standing in the middle of the road to gawk, crowding pull-outs and bridges and parking lots and wooden platforms for a view.
Seen from the riverbank an hour or so before sunset, a slow, steady stream of small flocks, then larger ones, then vast swarms coming in from the fields, circling, swirling, gradually descending, rising again, moving endlessly above every stretch of the river. Masses of cranes forming wave after wave after wave until the skies are filled with thousands upon thousands of coursing birds. Endless trumpeting, continual movement, banking and turning, mixing it up or stretching it out. Occasionally a lone “scout” (as we called them) maybe hunting (we muse) for the best roosting spot for its family. Each bird finally touching down, legs extended, wings spread broad to brake for landing on a sandbar or in the shallows. Noisy, closely packed wing-to-wing, flapping and walking and jumping and jostling. The light is lost after the sun descends, and yet birds still come in as dumb-struck watchers drift away for the night.
An hour or so before the muted dawn, stars and planets dot the sky. Thousands of cranes roosting in the shallow riverbed, most heads tucked, barely visible in the light of a half moon. Slowly stirring, finding their morning voices, dipping bills in the water perhaps to find a stray weed or grass to break the fast. One flaps its wings, then another, then a dozen, two jump straight up in the air, then settle down. A few take short flights, then land again. A long slow rousing to prepare for the day’s departure, honking that begins at pianissimo and makes an hour-long crescendo to fortissimo. Sky slowly turns pink, pale white, orange, purple as the sun finally peeks above the horizon. One crane alone, a small family group, sometimes an enormous group lifts off. I wonder whether lift-off is more sudden for the birds that have been in Nebraska for 2-3 weeks and are ready to resume their journey north, while the ones that arrived from the south only yesterday take their time as they settle in for a spell of respite and refueling. I don’t know.
Dusk again, people standing elbow to elbow on a viewing deck above the river. Over an hour and a half, the sky slowly becomes filled with cranes from horizon to horizon, north-south-east-west, distant flocks downriver that are just specks like giant swarms of insects, barely visible through binoculars, some coming up from nearby fields, all moving toward the river. As many cranes fly directly overhead, the rattley bugling is almost deafening. Our heads spin around to watch the next group approaching from the left, turn to see the thousands approaching from behind, look up at the birds just a few feet above us. We cannot take in the enormity of the shifting, thronging, ever-changing clouds of birds. Words are inadequate.
An occasional Bald Eagle, Red-tailed Hawk, Rough-legged Hawk, American Kestrel, Turkey Vulture in the air or perched along the fields. Once, a distant sight of a Bald Eagle’s nest, with just the top of a white head visible above the edge of the nest bowl, a parent incubating or brooding. A 4-year-old eagle consuming something in the river shallows, watched intently from a foot away by a 2-year-old. An early-morning duet between two Barred Owls.
Constant trumpeting of cranes flapping, soaring, landing, taking off, roosting, eating, audible from seemingly miles away, nearly deafening when overhead. Never an hour without the sight and sound of countless cranes in the air, in a field, in the river, or on a sandbar.
“Stop the car!” Approaching a sharp right turn, car window halfway down, a beautiful sound reaches our ears and we quickly pull over. A large flock of Western Meadowlarks flying around us, in and out of roadside shrubs, singing their melodious songs and showing us their bright, colorful plumages. A transcendent moment.
Red-winged Blackbirds everywhere. Secretive Song Sparrows with their flutey-trilly-buzzy warbles, and rattling Belted Kingfishers in the grasses along the river, often heard but rarely in view.
Suddenly, in one field, the heart-stopping sight that everyone who goes to see the Sandhill Crane migration hopes for, a white bird amidst a hundred or so gray Sandhill Cranes. Is it a Whooping Crane??? The car slides to a muddy stop, binoculars zero in, and the white stands out clearly amidst the gray plumage of the rest of the flock–it is not a trick of lighting or our viewing angle. But the bird has its bill buried in the mud and stubble, and we wait impatiently for it to raise its head. Finally it stands up, and we see that this bird is about the same height as the Sandhills nearby, not 6-12 inches taller as a Whooper would be. It has a red crown that adults of both species have, but not the red cheekbone of a Whooper, nor the prominent black stripe down the front of its neck that a Common Crane, recently spotted in the area, would have. Disappointment not to see a Whooping Crane, but we are not displeased to see what may have been a leucistic Sandhill Crane.
The wild extravagance far exceeded anything I had anticipated, and precious memories are now imprinted in my mind’s eye and ear.